Tomorrow is the anniversary of the birth in
1809 of Abraham Lincoln, sixteenth president of the United States of America. Celebration
of the event has varied enormously over time, depending on political and
historical loyalties, and budgeting decisions of individual states, but the day
has never been an official federal public holiday.
In 1909, on the one-hundredth anniversary of
his birth, an extra-ordinarily expensive banquet was held in Springfield,
Illinois. I have no information as to how this was funded.
A Twenty-Thousand Dollar Banquet
--
Chicago Firm
Successfully Caters for Eight Hundred
at Lincoln
Centennial Feast in Springfield, Illinois
--
Banquet Tickets Twenty-five Dollars Each . . .
. Facts and Figures
of Most Remarkable Gastronomic Event in the
History of Illinois
(From The Hotel Monthly of March, 1909.)
Probably
the greatest catering feat ever accomplished in the state of Illinois was
handled by the Richelieu Catering Co. of Chicago in Springfield, on the anniversary
of Lincoln's one hundredth birthday. The banquet was served in the Armory and
covers were laid for eight hundred at twenty- five dollars the plate. The
caterer's bill was, approximately, $10,000. The balance of the money was spent
for decorations, souvenirs, entertainment of invited guests, music and other
necessary expenses. This was the menu:
Cotuits
-
Martini Cocktail
Mock turtle, American
Celery Olives Radishes
-
Haut Sauternes
Crab meat with fresh mushrooms, Illini
-
Tenderloin of beef, Sangamon
Duchesse potatoes Green peas
-
Apollinaris
LOG CABIN PUNCH
-
Breast of guinea squab, Old Salem.
-
Pommard
Compote of fruit Lettuce and endive salad
-
Ice cream Assorted
cakes
-
Pommery and Greno Sec
Creamed roquefort cheese, in celery
Crackers
Coffee Cordials
Cigars
Cigarettes
To
serve this banquet, the Richelieu Catering Company took from Chicago a 48-foot
range, coffee urns, utensils, and all the necessary paraphernalia for cooking
and serving the banquet. The service of china, glass, silver and linen required
three railroad cars. Eighteen thousand pieces of china were used. A special kitchen
was built in the rear of the Armory, tent-covered, and with wood floor. Gas
pipes were connected for fuel, and these were protected against frost, so that
nothing would mar the success of the culinary end. All the foods were brought
from Chicago (192 miles) on Thursday night, and the banquet was served Friday night. Seventy-five colored waiters were employed, and
twenty-five white men for wine service. Forty-five of the colored waiters and
all of the white waiters were brought from Chicago.
One hundred and thirty help in all were employed by the caterers.
The
provisions included nine barrels of oysters, fifty gallons of soup, thirty pounds
of crab meat flakes, thirty pounds of fresh mushrooms, 560 pounds of No. 1 beef
tenderloin, and 375 guinea fowl. The liquid refreshments served averaged for
each guest: one cocktail, one glass of sauterne, one glass of pommard, three
glasses of champagne, and one liqueur. Each diner received three cigars.
The
service began at 7:30, and was ended at 9:30, when the speechmaking began.
Everything went off as smooth as smooth could be, and the catering firm was
highly complimented on the skillful management and the correct service. The
hall
was beautifully decorated by a St. Louis firm, the chief decorations being
chandeliers and wall brackets of electric lights, each bulb the center of a
poinsettia flower. The credit for the success of this great banquet is due
Richard
Ostenrieder,
general manager of the Edelweiss and Hofbrau Restaurants; S. Pruym, manager of
the catering department of the Hofbrau Restaurant and Richelieu Catering
Company; and Albert Stalle, chef of the Richelieu Catering Company.
The
illustration herewith of the banquet hall is from a photograph by Lawrence of
Chicago, and shows the clever arrangement of the tables, by which, radiating
from the speakers' table, each of the eighty tables (with ten diners at each)
was
located
so that every diner had unobstructed view of the speakers' table. The table
decoration was of cut flowers arranged in mounds purposely low, so as not to
obstruct the view of the speakers' table.
Each
guest was presented with a bound volume of the Life of Lincoln. The menu card
was in form of a booklet, the leaves eight by ten inches, the cover presenting
a fine portrait of Lincoln, Selections from Lincoln's addresses and
correspondence, gems of American literature, scintillated thru the pages.
Notwithstanding
the vast amount of table ware required for the service of this banquet, the
inventory count of the returned goods showed only four knives and four forks
missing. The total loss, including china, glass, silver, linen, and breakage,
amounted to less than $75.
I would dearly have loved to give you a recipe
for Log Cabin Punch, but it was almost certainly invented and named for the
day, and presumably to honour Lincoln’s birth in a humble log cabin in
Kentucky. Instead, I give you the instructions for Non-Such Punch (simply
because I like the name) from How to Mix
Drinks, or, the Bon-Vivant’s Companion, published in 1862 – only a few
years before he was assassinated in April 1865.
Non-Such Punch.
6
bottles of claret.
6 [ditto]
soda-water.
1 [ditto]
brandy.
1
[ditto] sherry
1
pint of green tea.
Juice
of three lemons.
½ of
a pineapple cut up in small pieces. Sweeten with white sugar to taste. Strain a
bottle immediately. Keep for one month before using.
This
is a delicious and safe drink for a mixed evening party. Cool before serving.
If you want something more specific for the
day, there are several versions of Lincoln Cake in a previous post here.
The article says there were 800 tickets at $25 each, which would come to $20k and cover the cost.
ReplyDeleteI've lived all my life in Illinois, most of it within an hour of Springfield, and I'm pretty sure the Guinea Sangamon is made up for the occasion, and I am willing to swear the crab flakes and mushrooms Illini was. I know there are no crabs native to Illinois, which is saved from being utterly landlocked by Lake Michigan, but I'm still sure there are no crabs. I'm less sure about Guinea fowl, though I doubt there are many near the Sangamon River.
ReplyDelete