I love
the scripts from the programs of the United States Department of Agriculture’s Bureau of Home Economics Radio Service. The
service ran a weekly ‘Housekeeper’s Chat’ for a number of decades in the first
half of the twentieth century. I have given you several of these scripts in the
past, and hope you like the one I have for you today.
From April
16, 1928:
(NOT FOR
PUBLICATION)
Subject:
"A Shore Dinner for Those Who Live Inland.
oOo
Today's special is a shore
dinner, for those who live far away from the sea, from lakes and rivers, and
fast-running streams.
I won't take time this morning to
give you a long lecture on the importance of fish; you know already that fish
is an important tissue-builder, and that salt-water fish is rich in iodine,
which we need in our diet.
The Menu Specialist and I visited
the Fish Market in Washington D. C. over a week ago, just after 15 boats, laden
with fish, had docked at the market. I wish you could have seen the fish: there
were shad and herring and rockfish, white and yellow perch, catfish and carp,
received from the nets along the lower Potomac. Herring were so plentiful that
they were selling by the hundred, instead of by the pound.
Inside the market we: found a
great quantity of cod and haddock, selling quite cheap, too. We also found
crabmeat, lobsters, and diamond-back terrapin. As I told the Menu Specialist,
the design on the shell of a diamond-back terrapin would be stunning in a
sports coat for spring. She told me I'd better keep my mind on fish, for the time being.
Perhaps you are bemoaning the
fact that fresh fish is not available in your community, and that it is
impossible for you to have fish in your menus, as often as your family needs it.
Do you know about the fish which
are frozen, packed in sanitary sealed packages, and sent all over the country?
No longer need we envy those who live near the sea, for we can get fish, all
ready to cook, which has all the qualities of ocean fish.
Some years ago a young American
biologist, living in Labrador, brought home a catch of frozen fish and threw it
into a tub of water, so it would thaw out, for eating. After a while, the young
biologist was greatly surprised to see his dead fish come to life, and begin
swimming around in the tub. The biologist never forgot about the frozen fish,
which had come to life. Since that time he and other technically trained men
have been studying fish, as it comes from the sea to the table. As a result, we
housekeepers can buy fresh fillets of fish, frozen at a very low temperature,
packed in paper packages, or in cartons, all ready to cook.
I suspect that some land lubber
wonders what a "fillet" (fil-lay) of fish is, and what we mean by the
process of "filleting". I'll tell you. The process of filleting a
fish consists of scaling and dressing the fish, splitting it, and removing the
backbone. The two sides, or fillets, are left clean, and practically free from
bone. In one process of freezing, each fillet of fish is passed through a final
cleansing bath of salted water, after which it is carefully wrapped in a white
vegetable parchment paper, to insure cleanliness, and to preserve the ocean
flavor. As a final step, the wrapped fillets are packed in containers, sealed
with airtight covers, placed in sturdy boxes with chopped ice, and shipped to
your market — all in the same day. Haddock and cod fillets are among the most
popular.
There's a great deal more I could
tell you about fish, but I must be getting on, to this shore dinner, for those
who live inland. It begins with a Clam Broth, Canned. With the Clam Broth, you
might serve tiny Horseradish sandwiches. Don't put too much horseradish in
them.
After everybody has finished with
the Clam Broth, and the Horseradish sandwiches, you can bring on the second
course, consisting of a Deep-Sea Pie (I'll describe it presently); Hot
Cabbage Slaw; and Corn Bread. I'll tell you about dessert later.
The Deep-Sea Pie is the unusual
part of this dinner. I never heard of a Deep-Sea Pie till the Menu Specialist
planned this meal, and I have an idea that she and the Recipe Lady got together
and invented the title. However, it's a wonderful pie, whatever the name. Ten
ingredients, for Deep-Sea Pie:
2 cups diced salt codfish 4 tablespoons butter
4 cups tomatoes 4 tablespoons
flour
1 bay leaf 2
cups mashed potato
6 cloves ½ teaspoon salt, and
½ onion 3 drops tabasco
Let's check the ten ingredients,
for Deep-Sea Pie: (Please repeat)
Soak the codfish in cold water,
until sufficient salt has been removed. Then cover, and cook in fresh water for
10 to 15 minutes, or until tender. Prepare a tomato sauce by cooking the spices
and seasoning with the tomato for 10 minutes. Strain, and to the tomato juice
add the melted butter and flour, which have been blended. When thickened, mix
with the drained cooked codfish and pour into a buttered baking dish. Cover the
top with mashed potato and bake until the potatoes are brown.
Now I'll tell you about the
dessert. The Menu Specialist's first thought was to have Plum Duff for dessert,
because she'd heard that Plum Duff was about the only real dessert that sailors
had in sailing days. She must have been reading "Two Years Before the
Mast." Well, she hunted up a cookbook of the United States Navy, and found
out that a Plum Duff is a heavy boiled pudding, thick with dried fruits,
molasses, and spices not a very good suggestion for a warm spring day.
But was she discouraged? Not a
bit of it. She decided to have Raisin Cup Cakes, with Whipped. Cream. "I
can still include the plums," said she, "but in lighter vein. Sort of a sublimated Plum
Duff, Aunt Sammy,"
Here's the recipe for Raisin Cup
Cakes, to accompany the Shore Dinner.
Nine ingredients, for Raisin Cups
Cakes:
1/4 cup butter 1 ½ cups sifted soft-wheat
flour
½ cup sugar ½ cup raisins
1 egg 2 teaspoons baking powder
½ cup milk ⅛ teaspoon salt, and
½ teaspoon vanilla
Nine ingredients, for Raisin Cup
Cakes: (Please repeat).
Cream the butter and sugar. Add
the well-beaten egg. Roll the raisins in 2 tablespoons of the flour. Sift the
other dry ingredients, and add alternately, with the milk to the first mixture.
Stir in the raisins and vanilla. Bake in greased muffin tins for 15 to 20
minutes, at a temperature of about 375° P. Serve while still warm, with whipped
cream or a pudding sauce.
To repeat the menu: Clam Broth;
Deep-Sea Pie; Hot Cabbage Slaw; and Raisin
Cup Cakes with Whipped Cream.
I hope you'll like this dinner.
And don't feel down-hearted, if you can't have fish fresh from a rippling
stream. Go to market, and see whether your dealer has frozen fish on hand. If
he doesn't, see what he has in the way of salt fish, smoked fish, and canned
fish. There's no need, nowadays, for any family to be without this most
necessary item of food.
2 comments:
Interesting that she doesn't include instructions for getting the salt out of the salt cod. It was quite an undertaking and if you didn't do it right the cod was inedible.
I agree those old scripts are fun. I went through some of them researching my seafood history book. The author does instruct how to freshen the salt cod, just not how many water changes would be needed. I have a feeling it is because salt fish was a common staple until the arrival of Birdseye's flash-freezing.
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