While I am
in Hobart I am staying at Hadley’s Orient Hotel, which is one of the oldest
hotels in Australia. It was built by convict labour in 1834, when the island
penal colony was still known as van Diemen’s Land (the official name change
came in 1856.) The building was originally called the Golden Anchor Inn, then in
1849 it became the Marquis of Waterford, under which name it traded for many
years. When a pardoned convict called John Webb bought the hotel, it became
known simply as ‘Webb’s Hotel.’ (As an interesting aside, Webb subsequently went
on to become official caterer to Government House. In the 1890’s the hotel was purchased
by John Clay Hadley, who renamed it Hadley’s Orient Hotel. The hotel has played
a huge role in the city’s history, and has welcomed many famous guests
including Prince Alfred of England (in 1868,) Roald Amundsen (in 1912 after his
return from the South Pole) and Errol Flynn.
History snippet
number 2: The first recorded horse race in Tasmania took place in 1813 – a mere
decade after European settlement. It was in ‘New Town’, a small settlement a
couple of miles from Hobart town centre, which finally gained its own post
office in 1842, and is now is an inner residential suburb graced with
magnificent Federation-style homes.
So, now
you have some context for my story today.
In 1859,
the three-day Annual Metropolitan horse race meet began on 6th
April, at the New Town Race course. It was a huge affair, with almost as much
effort applied to the catering as to the sporting aspects. The first day’s
events were described in minute detail in The
Courier (Hobart, Tasmania.) The weather on the day was apparently fine and
fair, and we are also told that:
The Turf was in first-rate order
and the Course presented a gay appearance.
Most of the citizens, with their
families, availed themselves of the opportunity to leave for a short time, the
toil of business and the dust and smoke of the city*, and enjoy the fresh air
and delightful scenery of the country.
A party of Police, under Mr.
Sub-Inspector Weale, were in attendance, should their services be required to
preserve order.
[*the population
of the entire state that year was less than 88,000 persons.]
Various hostelries
set up refreshment booths (all listed in the newspaper), and one of these was
provided by the hotel in which I am now staying, when it was still called The
Marquis of Waterford. There were also ‘two booths conducted on temperance
principles’ and ‘swings, &c were provided for the juveniles.’ It seems like
it was a fine day out for the citizenry both rich and not-so rich.
It is, however,
the bill of fare enjoyed by the committee members and their guests which is the
real purpose of this post:
THE
COMMITTEE BOOTH
Was under the superintendence of
Mr. George Brown, of the Sir John Falstaff, Campbell-street, and the varied and
plentiful supply of refreshments, as well as the excellence of the
arrangements, reflected great credit upon him.
The arches under the Grand Stand
had been curtained off, and hung with the flags of
All Nations, forming a most commodious
dining-room. Down the centre ran a long
table, which, whilst it was
covered with a profusion of good things, was laid out and décor rated in a very
tasteful and artistic manner. Covers were laid for fifty, but during the day fresh
guests were continually arriving. At the head of the table a gigantic baron of
beef, garnished appropriately, and decorated with flowers, reared its lordly
proportions, sirloins of beef; saddles of mutton, turkies, geese, ducks, fowls,
game, &c, formed the first course. The second consisted of tarts, puddings,
jellies, blanc mange, custards, and a choice dessert concluded the spread.
Every dish was ornamented with
flowers and appropriate ornaments, and vases of choice floral beauties were
placed at short distances on the table. The centre-piece was very beautiful and
was much admired. It consisted of a pyramid of grapes surmounted by a bouquet
of dahlias grouped in the form of a tulip.
The wines, spirits, &c. were
of the first qualities, and the courtesy and attention of
Mr. Brown and his assistants were
such as to win the golden opinions of the guests.
The following is the day's bill
of Fare:
Baron of beef (1) weighing 88
lbs., sirloins (12), saddles of mutton (8), rounds of beef (8), sucking pigs
(10) tongues (22), hams (12).
Turkeys roasted (14), turkeys
boiled (8), geese (16), ducks (18 couple), fowls (20 couple, boiled and roasted.)
Wild ducks (8) pairs, quail (8
dishes).
Giblet pies (12), chicken pies
(10), veal pies (10), pigeon pies (8), French raised pies (12), rump steak pies
(8)
Apple tarts (20), open tarts
(25), boiled custards (20 dozen glasses), 20 quart moulds lemon, orange and
calves foot jellies, blanc mange (20 dishes), raspberry creams (12 dozen), plum
puddings (25).
Grapes (12 dishes), apples (12
dishes), pears (12 dishes), raisins and almonds (20 dishes), biscuits, cakes,
&c.
The whole of the provisions were
cooked on Mr. Brown's premises, Campbell-street, under the superintendence of
William Jones, from Farance’s, Spring Gardens, London.
The Flowers and Fruit were from
the Nursery gardens of Mr. Alexander Begg, Battery
Point.
As the
recipe for the day, I am going with the grapes. Grapes appear in the above bill
of fare simply arranged in dishes, which is surely the best way to eat them. The
admirable centre-piece also featured grapes, and it is to be hoped they were
not discarded with the deceased dahlias.
Please
enjoy this marvelous solution to the problem of too many grapes whether due to
a leftover situation or a produce glut. From The Tasmanian (Launceston, Tas.) of 17 November, 1888:-
Spiced Currants and Grapes.
To five pounds of currants or
grapes add half a pint of vinegar, three pounds of sugar, and a tablespoonful
each of ground cinnamon, cloves, and allspice. Cook 15 minutes, , stirring frequently;
then remove from the fire, strain, and even run through a sieve. Some cooks add
a teaspoonful of white pepper and the same of salt, but such flavours do not
suit all tastes. Preserve in air-tight pint jars. This will be found a most
delicious condiment with meats and game
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