I have another Christmas bill of fare for you today. I found
it in Letters to a Gentleman in Germany:
Written After a Trip from Philadelphia to Niagara (1834,) where it appears
as a footnote to a discussion of European food.
That readers in Europe may not
suppose we are altogether starving in this country, in good things, as they
might be led to do from the accounts of some travellers, we here insert the
following, cut at random out of a Philadelphia newspaper. It is the bill of fare of the American coffee house, of December 25th, 1833.
“2 saddles Bears’ Meat; 2 saddles
Fine Mountain Venison; 2 saddles Albany Mutton; 500 Terrapins – large size,
very fine; 40 pair Canvass Back Ducks; Pheasants, Snipe, Woodcock, Red Necks,
Black Duck, Broad Bills, Mallard, Dried Salmon, Young Ducks, Vermicelli Soup;
Chickens – Barbecued and Fricasseed; Squabs – Stewed and Barbecued;
Sweetbreads; Sweetbreads Larded; Rabbits; Potatoes – Boiled or Roasted; Spanish
Olives; Pickles of various kinds; Sardines, Dutch Herring; Tripe and Oysters;
Oysters – plain, stewed, roasted, boiled and fried; Mutton Chops, with
shallots; Lamb Chops – French and English style; Anchovy Toast; Welch Rabbit;
Pork Steaks, Beef Steaks, with tomato sauce or onions; Veal Cutlets; Ham and
Eggs; Omelet; Chocolate; Cocoa; Coffee; Tea.
“A regular supply of Sauces,
received direct from London.
“In addition to the above list of
dishes, such arrangements have bee made, as will render it possible to serve up
all descriptions of Game in their proper seasons, together with every luxury
the epicure can desire.
N.B. Relishes always ready.”
As the recipe for the day, I give you the instructions for
drying salmon, and how to use the end product, from A new system of domestic cookery, by a Lady [M.E.Rundell] 66th
edition (London, 1842.)
To Dry Salmon.
Cut the fish down, take out the
inside and roe, rub the whole with common salt after scaling it; let it hang
twenty-four hours to drain. Pound three or four ounces of saltpetre, according
to the size of the fish, two ounces of bay salt, and two ounces of coarse
sugar; rub these, when mixed well, into the salmon, and lay it on a large dish or
tray two days; then rub it well with common salt, and in twenty-four hours more
it will be fit to dry: wipe it well after draining. Hang it either in a wood
chimney, or in a dry place, keeping it open with two small sticks.
Dried salmon is eaten broiled in
paper, and only just warmed through; egg-sauce and mashed potatoes with it; or
it may be boiled, especially the bit next the head.
To Dress Dried Salmon.
Cut in slices, and broil in
buttered paper. Egg-sauce. If served at breakfast, omit the sauce. Some like it
broiled without paper; if so, a very few minutes will do it.
An Excellent Dish of Dried Salmon.
Pull some into flakes; have ready
some eggs boiled hard and chopped large; put both into half a pint of thin
cream, and two or three ounces of butter rubbed with a tea-spoonful of flour;
skim it, and stir till boiling-hot; make a wall of mashed potatoes round the
inner edge of a dish, and pour the above into it.
If that last recipe used rice rather than mashed potato, it would almost be kedgeree.
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