In the old City of London, in the Middle Ages, the
various trades formed guilds (which became corporations) in order to regulate and protect their
respective industries. Each corporations took up the title of ‘Worshipful
Company’ and adopted a particular set of insignias or symbolic items of
clothing or livery – giving rise to
the alternative collective name of ‘Livery Companies.’
The
Livery Companies held regular dinners, the most important of which was the
annual election dinner, usually held on or near the feast day of the patron
saint of the specific company. I have previously given the bills of fare for
the Ironmongers’ Feast in 1687, and a dinner of the Worshipful Company ofCarpenters in 1633.
Today it is the turn of the
Merchant Taylors [Tailors] Company. A menu for a dinner held by the Company in
1430 is given in Memorials
of the Guild of Merchant Taylors of the Fraternity of John the Baptist in the
city of London, compiled and selected by the Master of
the Company for the Year 1873-4 and published in 1875. Only the first course of what would have been
at least two, and possibly three (if the occasion was grand enough) is given in
this nineteenth century source. Unfortunately I have been unable to find out any more
information about this particular dinner, from the non-primary sources available to me.
Le primer cours.
Brawn oue mustard. [Brawn
with mustard]
Blank brewet de rys. [Broth
of rice]
Chynes of pork vel
hakel beof. [Chines of Pork or ?hashed Beef]
Swan, rosted. [Swan,
roasted]
Fesaunt vel capon,
rosted. [Pheasant or Capon, roasted]
Checons, bake. [Chickens,
baked – i.e. in pies]
Jely vel Penynage. [Jelly
or ????]
Venison, rosted. [Venison,
roasted]
Partrich vel cok,
rosted. [Partridge or Cock, roasted]
Plover, rosted. [Plover, roasted]
Rabettes, soukers. [Rabbits,
‘new-born’ or ‘suckling’?]
Snytes vel quayles. [Snites
or Quails]
Fruture goodwyth. [Fritters
of some sort]
Quynces, bake. [Baked
Quinces]
As you will see from my ‘translation’ of the above
menu, the dish of ‘penynage’ – given as an alternative to the ‘jely’, remains a
mystery. I do hope one of you with far more knowledge than myself of fifteenth
century food, can enlighten us all.
The most interesting dish on the menu to me, is the
foetal or newborn rabbits. These were a delicacy at the time, and Rabbetes souker
rost appear in the
coronation menu of King Richard III in 1483, which I featured in my book Menus from History: Historic Meals and Recipes for Every Day of the Year.
Sadly, I am unable to
provide a recipe for newborn rabbits, but I am able to give you one for another
of the dishes on this menu. I cannot believe I have not given a recipe for baked
quinces (or wardens - a type of pear) in any previous posts - the dish was a
staple at fine dinner in the medieval era. At the time, ‘baking’ meant cooking
in a thick pastry shell, there being no shaped baking containers such as we
take for granted nowadays.
Quyncis or
Wardouns in past.
Take
& make fayre Rounde cofyns of fayre past; þan take fayre Raw Quynces, &
pare hem with a knyf, & take fayre out þe core þer-of; þan take Sugre
y-now, & a lytel pouder Gyngere, & stoppe þe hole fulle; & cowche
.ij. or .iij. wardonys or quynceȝ in a cofyn, & keuere hem, & lat hem
bake; & for defaut of Sugre, take hony; but þen putte pouder Pepir þer-on,
& Gyngere, in þe maner be-for sayd.
Two
fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS.
4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce
MS. 55: Thomas Austin.
1 comment:
Hungry
Post a Comment