I
thought I had found the ultimate example of the concept of flavoured dairy
beverages when I came across Curried Milk, but I have since found some serious
competitors for the honour.
Here
are a couple of serious contenders from a Prohibition cookbook called On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon: 500 recipes for
delicious drinks, which can be made at home, by Helen Watkeys Moore,
published in New York in 1919:
Chocolate and Celery.
Mix two
tablespoonfuls of chocolate paste with two tablespoonsfuls of cream. Add hot
water and season with celery salt. Put a spoonful of whipped cream on top.
Malted Milk and Oyster.
Mix to a smooth
paste one teaspoonful of malted milk with a little milk. Then add three
tablespoonfuls of oyster milk. Then add three tablespoonfuls of oyster juice
and fill up the glass with hot milk. Season with salt and celery salt.
Perhaps
these ideas will inspire those of you who make or sell milkshakes for a living.
No?
At
this point I am in complete agreement with a writer in Puck, in 1884:
“I never have had a
Prohibition beverage come into my system that it did not bring with it a large
assortment of gloom, headache and late-picked remorse”
The
following recipe, from the same source, does, however, sound reasonably
drinkable:
Milk Snap.
Add the beaten white
of an egg to one glass of cold milk and one fourth glass of ginger syrup. Shake
thoroughly and serve with a bit of grated lemon peel.
Milk,
of course, can be flavoured at the source, if the cows be fed certain foods.
Historically, this was a problem with the very useful fodder crop of turnip.
Farming magazines of the nineteenth century often gave advice about the
problem, such as the following, from Turnip
Husbandry, Papers (London, 1847)
“I am aware that
sometimes a slight disagreeable flavour is given to the milk and butter by the
turnips, but this can be entirely removed, by putting in each pan, before
putting in the milk, a pinch of nitrate of potash, (saltpetre.)”
Is there an idea
here? Could oyster-malted milks be produced by feeding cows with oysters?
Books which focus on
cookery for invalids could be expected to include plenty of milky beverages,
and it turns out they do not disappoint. The following recipe would certainly
solve the liquid calorie problem for a frail invalid, but I doubt will start a widespread
craze for hot, meaty, milkshakes (but please take up the idea and trial the
idea, if you are in the business – I am pretty sure no-one is doing hot
milkshakes anywhere these days.)
Suet Milk.
Cut one ounce of
mutton or veal suet into shavings, and warm it slowly over the fire in a pint
of milk, adding a little grated lemon peel, cinnamon and loafsugar.
Modern Household Cookery (1860) by Sarah
Josepha Hale.
From
the same source, if you don’t have the real thing, you could help any invalids
in your vicinity by making
Imitation of Asses' Milk.
Boil together equal
quantities of new milk and water, add one ounce of candied eringo-root: sweeten
with white sugar-candy, and strain.
If
you have a favourite outrageous-flavour milk, please do let us all know in the
comments!
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