One
of the most popular topics here on this blog over the years has been the egg. I
guess its popularity is due to many factors: eggs are an ancient food, they are
available everywhere, and they lend themselves to an almost infinite variety of
dishes for every occasion. There are of course many types of eggs enjoyed by
humans, and in previous posts I have discussed emu eggs, plovers’ eggs and the
eggs of several other birds, but today I want to focus once again on the humble hen’s egg.
My
source today is Eggs: Facts and Fancies;
compiled by Anna Barrows (Boston, 1890.) The author begins by saying “This book
has been compiled with a twofold object: to increase the use of eggs as food,
and thus increase their production.” In
addition to facts and fancies, the book is a fine source of egg-lore, egg
quotations, and anecdotes. My favourite section (other than the recipes of
course) is the short chapter on superstitions related to eggs, which I give you
in its entirety:
SUPERSTITIONS
There's something strange about egg shells,
That makes them proof against all spells."
Tudor Jenks
EGGS, and especially
their shells, have been thought potent aids in witchcraft.
Irish and English
nurses once instructed children to push their spoons through the shell of an egg,
after eating its contents, '' to keep the witches from making a boat of
it."
These lines from
Beaumont and Fletcher show the common belief:
"The devil should
think of purchasing that egg-shell.
To victual out a wife
for the Bermoothus."
(i.e.
Bermudas.)
Sir Thomas Browne tells
us another reason for breaking the shells, lest the witches should
draw or prick their
names therein and thus injure the person who had partaken of the egg.
Eggs laid on holy days
were supposed to possess helpful qualities against all ills.
In 1584, Reginald Scot
says, '' To hang an egg, laid on Ascension Day, in the roof of a house
preserveth the same from all hurts."
Eggs produced on Good Friday
were also kept, since they had power to extinguish any fire on which they might
be thrown.
The Netherlanders say
that ague may be kept at a distance by eating on Easter Day two eggs laid on
Good Friday. While in North Germany the shells are broken after the contents
are eaten to keep away the same dread visitor.
Dreaming of eggs is a
prediction of trouble, though if the shells be broken when they appear the
danger is averted.
Scotch fishermen think
it unlucky to have eggs on board their boats, as they will bring contrary
winds.
In many parts of
England eggs are not allowed to leave the house after sunset, for fear of ill
luck, and to have them brought in would be equally disastrous.
On Halloween, if the
white of egg be dropped into any pure liquid, the shape it takes will indicate
the future of the person trying the charm.
A maiden anxious to see
her future husband, spends the day of St. Agnes in silence and fasting, then
takes the yolk from a hard-boiled egg, fills the cavity with salt and eats
shell and all. After sundry incantations she may then count on seeing the
desired one in her dreams.
Hebrew mourners
returning from the funeral sometimes partake of a hard-boiled egg sprinkled
with ashes instead of salt. Probably this has reference to the resurrection.
I
have chosen three recipes from the book for you today:
Nuremberg Eggs.
(German
Recipe)
Shell hard-boiled eggs,
dip in batter, fry brown in butter. Dip again, and fry again, and so on till it
becomes a large ball. Serve with sauce.
Shaker Fish and Eggs.
Heat in a common
saucepan one pint of new milk, or thin cream if you have it. Season with salt,
and let it simmer for a few minutes. Remove a portion of this gravy into
another vessel and dissolve therein a small piece of butter. Into the saucepan
slice a layer of boiled potatoes, making the slices say three eighths of an
inch thick; to this add a little salt codfish, boiled and picked very fine,
then a layer of boiled eggs, each egg cut in four or five slices. Alternate
with another layer of potato, fish and egg until the desired quantity is
obtained. Now pour on the reserved gravy and cover over for a few minutes, or
until ready to place upon the table.
When dished up, place
upon the top some of the sliced eggs. The eggs should be boiled six minutes,
and then immediately immersed in cold water. This prevents them from becoming
too hard, and also toughens the shell, thus rendering it more easily removed.
For four persons, about eight eggs and eight medium- sized potatoes are needed.
This quantity will require of salt fish, about three tablespoonfuls, when
nicely prepared. This is really a delectable dish.
Egg Apples.
Boil the eggs hard.
Remove the shells one by one, while they are under the water; press both ends
softly between the first finger and thumb till it assumes the shape of an
apple. Color each slightly with red, or make little spots to simulate the
appearance of an apple.
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