The
whole pie-tart debate which was the topic of yesterday’s story was not likely
to have been an issue for our medieval ancestors. Their culinary language was
rich with words to describe pastry dishes with fillings - which is clearly a
reflection of the range of offerings at the tables of the wealthy at the time.
Here
are some of the medieval variations on a tart theme, as far as I have been able
to summarise them!
A
florendine (several spellings) was a
covered pie (or tart!).
A
vaunt was a fruit pie – but in the
medieval tradition was enriched with bone marrow.
A
flampoyne (various spellings) was a
‘tart’ ornamented with pointed pieces of pastry. The name perhaps comes from
‘flame point’ or flan pointé.
A
herbelade was filled with minced pork
and herbs.
A
talmouse was a sort of cheesecake,
often made in a triangular shape.
A
flaune, or flawn is obviously linguistically related to the modern ‘flan’, and
was an open tart, like a custard-pie or cheesecake.
I
give you a nice fifteenth century recipe for a tart filled with minced or
finely-chopped pork, fruit and spices reminiscent of a genuine mincemeat pie. It
is cooked in a pastry shell which has been partially pre-cooked in the oven.
Herbelade
Take Buttes of Porke,
and smyte hem in pecys, and sette it ouer the fyre; and sethe hem in fayre
Watere; and whan it is y-sothe y-now, ley it on a fayre bord, and pyke owt alle
the bonys, and hew it smal, and put it in a fayre bolle; than take ysope,
Sawge, Percely a gode quantite, and hew it smal, and putte it in a fayre
vesselle; than take a lytel of the brothe, that the porke was sothin in, and
draw thorw a straynoure, and caste to the Erbys, and gif it a boyle; thenne
take owt the Erbys with a Skymoure fro the brothe, and caste hem to the porke
in the bolle; than mynce Datys smal, and caste hem ther-to, and Roysonys of
Coraunce, and pynes, and drawe thorw a straynoure yolkes of Eyroun ther-to, and
Sugre, and pouder Gyngere, and Salt, and coloure it a lytel with Safroune; and
toyle yt with thin hond al thes to-gederys; than make fayre round cofyns, and
harde hem a lytel in the ovyn; than take hem owt, and with a dysshe in thin
hond, fylle hem fulle of the Stuffe; than sette hem ther-in a-gen; and lat hem
bake y-now, and serue forth.
Two
Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.: Harleian Ms. 279 (Ab. 1430), & Harl. Ms.
4016 (Ab. 1450), With Extracts From Ashmole Ms. 1439, Laud Ms. 553, & Douce
Ms. 55.: Edited By Thomas Austin.
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