For
the next three days I have some little coffee anecdotes for you, and will of
course include some recipes which use coffee as an ingredient.
Our
first story concerns Abigail Adams, wife of John Adams, first Vice-president and
second President of the United States. Abigail kept up a regular correspondence
with her husband during his frequent travels, updating him about the goings-on
in Boston. On July 31, 1777 she wrote about a protest by some of the women of
the town at the opportunism shown by local coffee merchants looking to capitalize
on the shortage of coffee.
"I have nothing
new to entertain you with, unless it is an account of a New Set of Mobility
which have lately taken the Lead in B[osto]n. You must know that there is a
great Scarcity of Sugar and Coffe, articles which the Female part of the State
are very loth to give up, especially whilst they consider the Scarcity
occasiond by the merchants having secreted a large Quantity. There has been
much rout and Noise in the Town for several weeks. Some Stores had been opend
by a number of people and the Coffe and Sugar carried into the Market and dealt
out by pounds. It was rumourd that an eminent, wealthy, stingy Merchant (who is
a Batchelor) had a Hogshead of Coffe in his Store which he refused to sell to
the committee under 6 shillings per pound. A Number of Females some say a
hundred, some say more assembled with a cart and trucks, marchd down to the
Ware House and demanded the keys, which he refused to deliver, upon which one
of them seazd him by his Neck and tossd him into the cart. Upon his finding no
Quarter he deliverd the keys, when they tipd up the cart and dischargd him,
then opend the Warehouse, Hoisted out the Coffe themselves, put it into the
trucks and drove off. It was reported that he had a Spanking among them, but
this I believe was not true. A large concourse of Men stood amazd silent Spectators
of the whole transaction."
Women
throughout history have regularly protested vigorously, and sometimes
violently, over the cost of staples such as bread and potatoes needed to feed
their families, but this is the only example I have come across of action taken
over luxuries such as coffee. No doubt there are other examples, and if you
know of any I would be grateful if you would tell us all via the comments.
Coffee
was not commonly used in cooking in the eighteenth century, but that is not to
say there are no recipes at all. I have previously given you a recipe for
Coffee Cream from the era, so today needs something different. In The
practice of modern cookery; adapted to families of distinction, as well as to
those of the middling ranks of life. …, published in Edinburgh in 1781, the
author, George Dalrymple gives a recipe for a Coffee Pie, as a variation of one
for Chocolate Pie.
Tourte
de Chocolate. Chocolate-pies.
Mix a little flour with
a pint of cream, and chocolate in proportion, a little sugar, and four eggs;
boil it about a quarter of an hour, stirring it continually for fear it should
catch at bottom; then put it in the paste, and the whites of four eggs beat to
a snow upon it; glaze it with sugar, and bake it.
N.B. Coffee-pie is make
after the same manner, boiling two or three dishes of clear coffee with the
cream instead of the chocolate, as the preceding; they are both to be done
without top-crusts.
2 comments:
I, and I am sure many others, protest at your use of the term "luxury" to characterize coffee, one of the essentials of life.
You will surely like tomorrow's story, lamidave!
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