American Food in London, 1939.

The London department store called Selfridges opened in 1909. The store has an American heritage, so it is not surprising that a decision was made to feature American foodstuffs. In June 1939, Selfridges ran the following advertisement in The Times.

AMERICAN FOODS

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By Calisthenes

Many a time, having looked over the list of our American Groceries, we have felt for these departments a kinship with Brillat Savarin. Whether one considers the list carefully, or turns over its pages in desultory fashion, there is always something unusual, quite different in these biscuits and beans, fruits and preserves, syrups and vegetables from across the Atlantic. The very names are appetizing, openingup to the uninitiated a vista of future gastronomic delights. Corn Popper and Candied Yams, Blueberries in Syrup and Hominy, Melon Mangoes and Succotash  – they seem to stir the imagination and titillate the least susceptible of salivary glands! And what of Brandied Peaches, or those tins of biscuits known as Koeppens Snappies, or Duff’s Devil’s Food Mixture, a packet flour famed in American kitchens? To run through the list is an appetizing adventure.

Visits to the States have familiarised great numbers of our people with many of these American and Canadian food specialties. American families either resident or visitors in London have brought with them their national tastes. So, our Food Department in Orchard Street has been built into and become the recognised centre for everything that can possibly be grouped under the heading of “American Foods.” Although the section allocated to these specialties is particularly large, we are always prepared to add to it such items as may be suggested and which are not included in the list today.

It is clearly impossible within the limits of our space to extract from our list, which we believe to be the most complete in Europe, more than these few items. We stock all of the usual articles and here are some that are unusual.

CEREALS

Fig and Bran                                       Hominy Grits

Corn Kix

BISCUITS

Maple Pecan                                        Prezelettes

Macaroon Snow                                  Slim Jane

Creams                                   

Saltines                                                Fig Newtons

                                                            Dutchess Partisnax

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE JUICE

Apricado                                             Papaya

Carrot Juice                                         Guava Nectar

Banana Nectar

FRUITS

Brandied Peaches                               Spiced Watermelon

Stuffed Oranges                                                         Rind   

in Grenadine                           Skinless Figs

Mangoes in Rum

FISH

Shad Roe                                                        Tuna Fish

And preserved meats, sauces, canned and bottled vegetables and sundries in most tempting variety. Our complete list will be sent, with pleasure, to any reader.

I would be interested to know if this list brings back any food memories for you.

As for the recipe for the day, I give you an idea for using Stuffed Oranges in Grenadine, should you be able to source them. The recipe appears in the Eugene Register-Guard of December 22, immediately following a recipe for “Christmas Candle Salad” – a rather alarming-sounding concoction consisting of banana “candles” standing upright in pineapple rings, which was sure to “delight small folks and at least interest the grown-ups.” The text went on to say:

“Another attractive salad, which is more expensive uses stuffed oranges preserved in grenadine syrup. Since it is very easy to make it may appeal to the busy woman who cooks in a kitchenette."

Christmas Salad.

Four slices stuffed orange, eight heart leaves of head lettuce, whipped cream salad dressing, 4 green cherries.

Arrange two leaves of lettuce for each salad and put a slice of orange in the center. Drop one tablespoon salad dressing on each slice of fruit and top with a cherry. Green grapes can be used in place of the cherries if more convenient. You can buy the preserved oranges at any fancy grocery.