The
Harper’s Bazaar edition of April 1900
which gave us yesterday’s Easter Egg recipes also included one for Hot Cross
Buns. I have given you recipes for Hot Cross Buns previously, but there is
always room for one more, and anyway, I liked the introductory words:
FOR days before Easter the shop windows are gay with Easter gifts,
Easter favors, Easter novelties of all sorts. Even those to whom Lent has been
little more than a name feel the influence of the spring gladness the
approaching festival brings. The Easter thrill is in the blood, and it is
natural that there should be a desire to express the inner spirit by some
outward and visible sign. It is the effort to do this which fills our homes
with blossoms, that moves us to send Easter cards and tokens to our friends,
and that prompts us to make the children about us joyous by the bestowal of
rabbits, colored eggs, baby chicks, and the other quaint and pretty emblems of
the season. The housekeeper who marks the calendar of the year in the kitchen,
as well as out of it is seeking diligently just now the dishes suitable for
this feast. In some respects the task is less easy at this festival than at
others, since there is no time-honored convention concerning Easter. With the
Easter breakfast the work is comparatively simple. It is not so long after Good
Friday that cross-buns are yet out of season, and the leftovers can be made hot
and crisp for the Sunday breakfast. Eggs are a sine qua non, and instead of converting them into an omelet or
other made dish, they would better be served whole. If it does not seem
sufficiently festive to have new-laid eggs boiled in the shells, they may
appear as stuffed or deviled eggs, retaining thus their natural shape, and crisp
from frying or masked with a white or anchovy sauce. Colored eggs of ice-cream
each egg placed in an individual nest of spun sugar make a pretty dessert. In
circumstances where for any reason the spun sugar and ice-cream are not
feasible, an excellent home-made substitute can be provided by a hen’s nest of preserved orange-peel shredded to imitate
straw.
Hot Cross Buns.
Make a sponge of a cup and a half of milk, half a
yeast-cake dissolved in half a cup of warm water, and flour enough to make a
thick batter. Set in a warm place overnight. In the morning add two large
spoonfuls of butter, melted, half a cup of sugar, a salt-spoonful of salt, and
as much cinnamon or gratedd nutmeg. Work in more flour until the dough can be
handled, kneading it well. Cover, and let it rise in a warm corner for five
hours longer, then roll out into a sheet about half an inch thick, and cut into
rounds, like biscuit. Lay them in a buttered baking-pan, let them rise half an
hour, cut a cross upon each, and put into the oven. When they are baked to a
light brown brush over with white of egg beaten up with fine sugar, and take
from the oven. For a large supply double the quantity.
2 comments:
Elizabeth David (again!) relates the story that Protestant English monarchs view Hot Cross Buns as a dangerous symbols of Catholic belief, baked from the consecrated dough used in making the communion wafer. They tried unsuccessfully to ban the sale of the but they were too popular, so Elizabeth I passed a law permitting bakeries to sell them, but only at Easter and Christmas.
I read somewhere that the "cross" on the buns predates the crucifixion, and actually represents the crossed horns of the ox - an associate of the Goddess Oestra - an ancient Scandinavian goddess of Spring. I guess it may be one of those things that will never be solved though.
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