In
1803, the latest fad was a Pic Nic Supper. It was not the same sort of event that we
associated today with the word ‘picnic’ however. The
Annual Register, Or, A View of the History, Politics, and Literature for the
Year explains:
This season has been
marked by a new species of entertainment, common to the fashionable world,
called a Pic Nic supper. Of the derivation of the word, or who was the
inventor, we profess ourselves ignorant, but the nature of it we can inform our
readers is as follows:
A Pic Nic supper
consists of a variety of dishes. The subscribers to the entertainment have a
bill of fare presented to them, with a number against each dish. The lot which
he draws obliges hm to furnish the dish marked against it, which he either
takes with him in his carriage, or sends by a servant. The proper variety is
preserved by the talents of the maître d’hotel, who forms the bil of fare.
And
here is another perspective, from 1826.
I
believe pic-nic is originally a cant
word, and was first applied to a supper or other meal in which the
entertainment is not provided by any one person, but each of the guests
furnishes his dish. In a pic-nic supper one supplies the
fowls, another the fish, another the wine and fruit, &c.; and they all sit
down together and enjoy it. A very sociable way of making an entertainment Yes,
and I would have you observe that the principle of it may be extended to many
other things. No one has a right to be entertained gratis in society; he must
expend if he wishes to enjoy.— Conversation, particularly, is a picnic feast,
where every one is to contribute something, according to his genius and
ability. Different talents and acquirements compose the different dishes of the
entertainment, and the greater variety the better; but even one must bring
something, for society will not tolerate any one long who lives wholly at the
expense of his neighbours.
The Works of
Anna Lætitia Barbauld
It
seems, then, that there were no dishes made specifically for picnics, although
presumably then as now, it would be sensible to prepare ones that were easy to
transport.
By
the second half of the nineteenth century, the picnic had evolved into an
outdoor meal, much as we know it now, although the food is more complex, as was
the Victorian way. Here are some ideas for picnic food from Commonsense Papers on Cookery (1877.)
We
will run hastily through the ordinary picnic dishes, with a word or two to say
on each.
First,
cold lamb and mint sauce. Bear in mind that the former is very apt to turn
quickly, in hot weather, especially if packed close, or put in a hamper near
the top exposed to the sun. Pepper the joint, and wrap it up in cool cabbage-leaves. The
mint sauce must be put in a small bottle, a stone ginger-beer bottle being as
good as anything.
Second,
lobster salad. This of course is dressed on the ground. Take care, however, in
packing the lobsters, that they do not impart a fishy flavour to everything
else. A few hard-boiled eggs should be taken to garnish the salad.
Pigeon
pie. A good pigeon pie ought to have plenty of gravy, and this gravy when cold
should be properly a firm jelly. I recollect once in a picnic the pigeon pie
had leaked, and the gravy had soaked quite through the table-cloth, which had
been placed folded up near it in the hamper. Now a very little trouble would
have avoided this in making the gravy for the pie, bearing in mind the time of
year, and how unlikely gravy is to set firm unless made exceedingly strong. All
the cook has to do is to put in a little gelatine. This will insure the gravy
being firm when cold.
A
cucumber properly dressed is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to cold fowl and
cold meat in hot weather, and perhaps never appears to better advantage than at
a picnic.
And let us not forget the picnic beverages. The
author suggests claret cup:
I
have already given directions how to make claret-cup. When claret-cup is
required for a picnic, it will be found best to take ready mixed in a small
bottle some plain syrup, and also in another bottle a little sherry, brandy,
and noyeau, mixed in the proportions I named before. All, therefore, that is
required is a strip of the peel from the cucumber and a slice of lemon to be
added to a bottle of claret, the mixed wine and spirit out of the bottle next,
a little syrup, a lump of ice, and a couple of bottles of soda-water to finish with.
And here are her lengthy instructions for
claret-cup.
It is impossible to
make a good cup out of really bad claret. I do not mean cheap claret, but sour.
It is quite possible to get a good sound wine for twenty-four shillings a
dozen, or even less; but at the same time it is quite possible to pay more, and
get a sour compound that would be unfit for cup or any other purpose. On the
other hand, to use really good claret, such as Chateau Margaux or Chateau
Latour, for making cup, would be as bad as using 1834 port to make negus.
Perhaps the most
difficult point to determine in making claret-cup is its sweetness. Now, as
this is purely a matter of taste, I would recommend persons to err on the side
of too little sugar rather than too much, as it is always easy to add, but
impossible to take away.
Take therefore about an
ounce and a half of white sugar, and dissolve it by pouring a table-spoonful of
hot water on it, and afterwards adding a little claret. I have always found
this plan best, as otherwise the sugar is apt to settle at the bottom of the
cup or jug, thereby often making the compound not quite sweet enough at
starting, and a great deal too sweet at the finish.
We will suppose,
therefore, that the sugar is completely dissolved, and added to a whole bottle
of claret in the jug or cup selected for the purpose. Add two thin slices of
lemon — cut across the lemon, care being taken to avoid any pips — and one thin
slice of cucumber-peeling about as long and as broad as the first finger, and
the thickness of the blade of a dinner-knife. Next add one sherry-glassful of
sherry, one table-spoonful of good brandy — not some of that dreadful cheap
brandy that smells like naphtha — and one table-spoonful of noyeau or
maraschino. Rub a nutmeg about half a dozen times across the grater over the
cup.
Let the cup stand for
about a quarter of an hour, and then taste it. Should the flavour of the
cucumber be very decided, take out the piece of cucumber; and the same as
regards the lemon. Should the flavour of the peel of the lemon be detected,
take out the two slices of lemon, for lemons vary immensely in strength.
Now add a large lump of
ice and a bottle of soda- water, taking care to pour the latter in carefully –
i.e - to put the soda-water bottle almost into the cup. I have seen persons
pour the soda water from a height, thereby losing half the carbonic-acid gas,
which ought to go into the cup to freshen it up, so to speak.
All that the cup now
requires is drinking. It is by no means a very cheap affair, as the sherry, brandy,
and noyeau probably cost more than the claret.
2 comments:
The original description of a "pic-nic" sounds a lot like what we in the U.S. would call a "pot-luck." (I suspect that word has also changed meaning; it sounds like "you don't know what's in the pot.")
Sandra
I guess it does, Sandra! I must now look into the origin of the "pot luck" - the phrase and the event. Unless you have any insights?
Post a Comment