Life
was not easy for the new wife in the Victorian era, if one was from the middle
class. There was the sudden necessity to be Mistress of the Household and to
manage recalcitrant, lazy, thieving, and just plain intimidating staff, for
starters - and to do it within the household budget allotted by one’s hopefully
loving, but inevitably stern, Husband, all the while producing for him a steady
stream of children.
Luckily,
there were plenty of authors and publishers willing to come to the rescue. A
plethora of cookery and household management books hit the shelves in the
second half of the century and a little beyond. One of my favourites of these
is Cre-Fydd's Family Fare: The Young
Housewife's Daily Assistant on All Matters Relating to Cookery and
Housekeeping, published in London in 1864.
Before
I give you some of the insights from the book, I want to give you one of its
puzzles. The name, or word ‘Cre-Fydd’ is a mystery to me. It appears to be a
pseudonym, but I have not been able to find out the real name of the author.
The word spelled without the hyphen means ‘religion’ in Welsh. I have no idea
what this means, so if you do, please let us know!
Now,
to the book. The author’s preface is suitably reassuring to the nervous young
housewife:
Let any young housewife
in moderate circumstances (and we cannot all afford to invoke the shade of Ude,
or have Francatelli at our elbow) answer whether, when she has put the
newly-purchased cookery-book into the hands of her cook, she has not been
ultimately disappointed. Not from excessive fastidiousness on her part, or from
the want of goodwill in the cook, but because, in the majority of instances,
the receipts and directions are only suited to those cooks who are well
informed, and have had considerable .They are often the result of theoretical
ingenuity, or the productions of those who know, but who cannot impart their
knowledge to the uninformed. Theory and practice must be combined; and that
combination put forth in such language, that while the lady will not object to
read, the cook will be able to understand. The Authoress of the present work
has, from various motives, sought opportunities, and from peculiar
circumstances found them, of acquiring the receipts it contains. They are not
all new to the Public, though many of them are, but they have all this
recommendation — that they have been tested, and served on the table of the
Authoress, under her direct supervision. Those dishes have passed the ordeal of
fastidious and almost morbidly critical palates, and have come forth with
approval. The materials suggested are reasonably economical, the quantities
exact, and the directions plain. The words 'reasonably economical' are used
advisedly, as it would be insulting to the understanding of sensible persons to
state that inferior materials can be formed into superior dishes. In addition
to the receipts on cookery, the Authoress has introduced a variety of other
receipts and suggestions for the management of a house and servants. With
regard to servants, it may be observed that many of them would be much better
for the gentle but firm directions of a kind mistress. Experienced and skillful
servants need no direction; but such are not always to be found; and when
found, the rate of wages required by them would not be suitable to persons with
a moderate income. A mistress, under such circumstances, if she would have a
comfortable establishment, must be able, in some degree, to instruct her
servants; without this, it is impossible that they, who have but little
experience, can know the wants incident to a respectable family.
The necessity of doing
what she advises, has been forced on the Authoress during a long life of much
experience.
In order to moderate,
in some degree, the difficulty of managing a household, these suggestions are
made. If the Authoress has aided the young housewife, and smoothed the way in
the difficulties of housekeeping, and in that essential to health and comfort,
good cooking, her object has been attained.
It will be observed
that the quantity of every ingredient used is carefully given, as well as the
exact time required in cooking. Each receipt is perfect in itself, for it is
found that reference to other receipts is, to the inexperienced, extremely
perplexing. French terms are avoided.
It is right to add that
the whole of the receipts have been successfully used, with the simple aid of
an ordinary range, and the usual appliances found in the kitchen of a small
establishment.
The
author includes suggested menus for every day of the year for breakfast and
dinner, as well as for ‘the kitchen’ – that is, the servants. For today, the
menu is:
MARCH 12
BREAKFAST.
Potted shrimps, broiled ham, fried eggs, hot cake,
honey.
DINNER.
Fillets of sole, with sweet herbs.
Irish stew, roast pigeons, sprouts.
Ground rice souffle.
Cheese, &c.
KITCHEN.
Meat pudding, potatoes.
Naturally,
the author gives recipes for the dishes suggested. For your breakfast delight,
I give you her recipe for Potted Shrimps.
Potted
Shrimps.
Take
off the shells of two quarts of fresh-boiled shrimps ; season with the sixth
part of a nutmeg, grated, two grains of cayenne, a saltspoonful of white
pepper, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, dissolved. Press the shrimps
into pots or a small pie-dish; pour over the top two ounces of dissolved
butter. When firm they are fit for use. Another way, and sometimes preferred,
is to pound the shrimps to a paste, add the seasoning, and finish as directed.
God forbid the kitchen should feast on shrimps!
ReplyDeleteI mean, seriously. You're just asking for trouble having that kind of disconnect between the upstairs/downstairs menus. Adjust accordingly!
This book sounds as if it is written and tested as Mrs Beeton's effort should have been, and was not.
ReplyDeleteMore, more.
Is it available online, public domain?
Deb
Apparently "dissolved" means melted, at least in the case of butter. Interesting!
ReplyDeleteSandra
Interesting article. I am particularly interested in the Victorian era and the cookbooks/household manuals published during that time. I also like your articles on medieval foods. I find that time period very interesting too.
ReplyDeleteI do find words like authoress (poetess, murderess, etc.) very annoying. I think it sounds horrible. Definitely a relic of a different time.
Shay: you clearly would not have had the appropriate superior attitude for a Victorian Mistress of a Household. Treating the servants equally! You would have been disowned by the Ladies of your acquantaince!
ReplyDeleteyubbadeb - I think this book is one of the better ones of the era for that reasone!
Anonymous - I agree, an odd use of the word.
Dianne - Thanks, please do come back regularly.
yubbadeb - yes, the book is online> either Google books or the Internet Archive, just search for the title. I have an old hard copy from the pre-online days, lucky me.
ReplyDeleteStill looking--Sophie Schneideman's rare books catalog describes another Cre-Fydd work, Meals for the Million, which includes ads for Cre-Fydd brand kitchen equipment and sauces, made by companies in Notting Hill. Contemporary reviewers call Cre-Fydd an "authoress," but that could have been an assumption.
ReplyDeleteJenny Islander