In
a post a long time ago I talked about one of the many difficulties in
interpreting historical recipes (and there are many) is that a pound or a
gallon or a number of other measurements have not always been the same everywhere or in every
era.
It
is also true that a hundred did not always equal 10 x 10. This did not matter
to the ordinary household cook, but it was very important to anyone buying or
selling commodities.
In
1440, in the great fishing town of Yarmouth, a regulation was established (or
confirmed) that:
Hearings [herrings] are
sold freshe by the meise, which is five hundred, eche hundred contayning
vj xx.
That
is, a “hundred” of herrings was actually one hundred and twenty herrings. This
was technically a “long hundred,” but the “long” was often understood. There
was a lot to “understand” however because the actual number represented by a
long hundred depended on the item and the era.
Fish
were commonly traded in long hundreds and this usually indicated six score, or
120, as in the fifteenth century reference above. It could mean more however. A
reference in the Household Ordinances of Edward II (1284-1327) noted that “Of somme manner of fish the hundred
containeth six score, and of some other sort, nine score.” A seventeenth century
reference says “Ling, Cod, or Haberdine, have 124 to the Hundred.” It could
even mean as much as nine score, or one hundred and eighty. Other items
commonly counted in long hundreds were eggs (120,) sheep in some areas (106,)
dried salt fish (160,) and onions and garlic (225, made up of 15 “ropes” of 15
heads each.)
Complicated,
isn’t it? Anyway, just in case you have a lot of herrings and eggs, how about a
nice herring omelet?
Omelettes.
(Omelets)
Beat
up any quantity of eggs you think necessary, with fine salt and
pepper, parsley and green onions shred very fine; put some butter into a
fryingpan, let it melt, and then put in the eggs; fry the omelet till it
is of a good colour underneath, and. turn it into a dish for table. To make any
particular omelet, as with bacon, veal kidneys, heads of asparagus, truffles,
morels, or mushrooms, the ragout must be first made, seasoned as you wish, and,
when cold, minced, that it may mix well with the eggs; beat the whole well
together, and then make these omelets in a fryingpan, the same as others.
Regulate the seasoning of the omelet according to that of the ragout, taking
care that it be not too highly seasoned.
Omelette
aux Harengs Sorés (Red Herring Omelet)
Open
the herrings at the back and broil them, then mince and put them into the
omelet: do not add any salt to the eggs and finish the omelet as others.
French
domestic cookery, by an English physician 1825.
2 comments:
This is one of my favorite French cookbooks, and arguably the first book of French middle-class cooking written in English. I like the complete title: French Domestic Cookery, Combining Economy with Elegance, and Adapted to the Use of Families of Moderate Fortune, by an English Physician, Many Years Resident on the Continent. I found a period review of the book in which the reviewer dismissed the book as worthless in a single line.
BTW, I assume, the good doctor was using salted herrings for his recipe.
Hi Peter. It is a fun book, isnt it? I love the long titles - more fun than the back-of-the-book blurb we get nowadays. I assumed too that it was salted herrings - but I am not sure why I assumed that. Was it assumed at that time that "herring" meant salted unless specified otherwise?
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