I was surprised to discover that it was not until
two centuries after the Earl’s birth that the sandwich really took off as a
take-out lunch option for the busy businessman. At least, that is how I
interpret the following article, which appeared in the New York Times of November 2, 1924.
Sandwiches Flourishing.
The day of the sandwiches has arrived. It is so proclaimed
by placards and posters plastered over the business districts. A new type of
lunchroom substantiates the announcement - the 'sandwich house.' It may offer
side lines of hot dishes and pastries, but to sandwiches it owes its existence.
For them it is known and patronized. In its turn it has served to change the
status of the commodity. 'A sandwich used to represent a picnic or a pink tea,'
commented one business man addicted to the habit. 'At best it was just a
mouthful of something to eat to tide you over until mealtime. Now it is lunch.
You may order something to keep it company, but the sandwich is the main thing.
It is the corn beef and cabbage, the steak and onions, the liver and bacon of
other years.' Restaurant keepers agree. One of them in the financial district,
who presides over a chain of sandwich buffets, believes he has hit upon the
secret of the business man's desire for his midday meal. Once he was manager of
a large hotel where men came in leisurely, ordered lavishly and ate copiously.
That day is gone, he is convinced, as he watches throngs file past his counters
and stacks of sliced bread, meat and cheese disappear. At one of his lunchrooms
he feeds 700 at every lunch hour. When the day is over 1,000 sandwiches have
usually been consumed. Only 25 per cent of his patrons, he estimated, call for
hot dishes - the rest are sandwich eaters. This development has brought with it
all the machinery of sandwich-making, now becoming as common a feature of
restaurant windows as the hot cake steam plate New Yorkers know so well. There
is a machine that slices the loaves and another that slices the meat. This
last, at the press of a button, cuts and stacks ham, tongue, beef and so on
without touch of human hands. Sandwich-making is thus facilitated and
sandwiches themselves have changed not only in status but also in stature and
girth. These sandwiches have little in common with the link tea or picnic
offering or even with those pressed slabs in waxed paper piled up at soda
fountains, for the business man's lunch is a high stack of bread, meat and
salad, combined, and they make it as you order. The vogue of the sandwich is
attributed to a considerable extent to the rush of modern business life. Men
have no time to sit around leisurely waiting for large orders. They must grab a
bite, preferably wholesome and satisfying, but essentially without delay. The
sandwich has been found to fill the need. Education, too, it is said, has
something to do with the matter. 'Ever since the war people have seemed to understand
eating better than they did before,' said one restaurant keeper. 'Before the
war you could not get away with the idea that a sandwich was enough lunch for a
business man. But somehow they have come to the conviction that a light lunch
is the best thing if they expect to go back to the office and do their best
during the afternoon. They have heard, too, that salads are good for you and so
they have tried them out and felt much better for the experiment. Salads and
sandwiches - they are the style for a business man's lunch today. That is what
they want and that is what they get.
The Times of India, on September 11, 1931, gave some ideas for ‘unusual
sandwiches’ which are very appropriate for our topic today, although admittedly
the suggestions were specifically for picnic sandwiches. I cannot give you all
of the recipes, as the ink is blurred in places and the text impossible to
read.
Some Unusual Sandwiches.
Varied Fillings which are Sure to Please.
Liver
and Bacon Sandwiches.
Cut up small six ounces of calves’ liver and three
ounces of uncooked bacon, add a teaspoonful of crushed peppercorns [?], a
little chopped parsley, and a bayleaf, and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
Put together into one ounce of hot fat [?] in a
frying pan over [word?] heat for six minutes, stirring all the time. Sieve, and
when cold, use in sandwiches.
Fig
Sandwiches.
Chop some figs finely, add sufficient water almost
to cover, and cook in a […} saucepan to a pulp. Heat [presumably a typo for ‘Beat’]
to a smooth beast, with a few drops of lemon juice, and spread between buttered
bridge rolls.
Green
Pea Sandwiches.
Pound four ounces of cooked peas and mix with one
finely-chopped hard-[boiled?] egg. Add half a teaspoonful each of salt and
pepper. Use between buttered bread or bridge rolls.
Egg
and Chutney Sandwiches.
Pound together the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs,
two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of chopped chutney, and salt and pepper
to season.
Sieve and spread fairly thickly between buttered
bread slices.
2 comments:
"Pink tea"? Is that meant to mean a frou-frou ladies' meal instead of a proper substantial working-man's tea?
Sandra
Sorry for the late response, Sandra - I dont know where my time goes!
'Pink teas' or 'pink luncheons' were in fact very popular for ladies and brides-to-be at the time. Also, for the brides, sometimes white teas or lunches. I have several menus for them - maybe a post next week?
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