My first port of call on the subject is Charles Herman Senn’s The Book of Sauces (Chicago, 1915.) It includes
only one pink sauce – a glossy, jellied coating sauce for cold dishes called chauds-froid (warm-cold.)
Chaud-froid Sauce, Green or Pink.
Prepare a white
chaud-froid sauce, to which add a few drops of spinach greening to give it a
green tint, or a few drops of liquid carmine or cochineal to give it a rose or
pink tint.
Chaud-froid Sauce, Blanche (White
Chaud-froid Sauce.)
½ pint bĂ©chamel or supreme
sauce, 1 gill aspic, 5 or 6 leaves French gelatine, 1 gill cream, 1 teaspoonful
chili vinegar or lemon juice.
Dissolve the gelatine
along with the aspic jelly, warm up the sauce, and mix the two together. Stir
over the fire until it boils, put in vinegar or lemon-juice, and cook for a few
minutes. Strain or tammy; add the cream when cooling and use as required.
There are a lot of versions of pink sauces or fish:-
Pink
Sauce for Fish.
To make the appetising pink sauce which is served with
fish in some restaurants, take a good white sauce, flavored with anchovy sauce,
a little lemon juice, and cayenne, and colored with a single drop of cochineal.
Warwick Examiner andTimes
(Queensland) 26 August, 1914
Shrimp Sauce [for fish].
The pink sauce makes a pretty contrast to the brown of the fish.
Required: One pint of shrimps, a sprig of parsley and thyme, a little piece of
onion, one and a half ounces of butter, one and a half ounces of flour, salt
and pepper, a little lemon juice and anchovy essence. Shell the shrimps. Put
the heads and tails into a saucepan with a pint of water, the herbs, and six
peppercorns, and boil these for fifteen minutes, then strain off the liquor and
save it. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour smoothly, then add
the liquor gradually: you will want half a pint. Stir over the fire till the sauce
boils, then add to it the lemon-juice and anchovy essence. Re-heat it, adding
to it the shelled shrimps. See it is nicely seasoned, and serve it in a hot
sauceboat. The shrimps should be boiled for a minute or two and then strained
before they are added to the sauce.
Camperdown Chronicle (Victoria) 28
February 1905.
Pink Sauces for Puddings: there are many variations on the following
theme:
Pink Cream.
Whip one pint of cream with one cupful of currant jelly, sweeten and serve
in jelly glasses. Currant, raspberry, or strawberry juice may be used in place
of jelly.
Still Another (Oakland, CA, 1883), by the Ladies' Aid Society of the
First Congregational Church.
And if you want one to keep, there are also bottled pink sauces:-
Pink Sauce, for Fish.
Put into a pan, or
wide-mouthed jar, one quart of good vinegar, half a pint of port wine, half an
ounce of cayenne, one large table-spoonful of walnut catsup, two ditto of
anchovy liquor, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, and six cloves of garlic.
Let it remain forty hours, stirring it two or three times a-day; run it through
a flannel bag, and put it into half-pint bottles.
The Practice of Cookery, Adapted to the Business of Everyday
Life
(Edinburgh, 1830) by Mrs. Dalgairns.
Pink Sauce.
Mix together half a pint
of port wine, half a pint of strong vinegar, the juice and grated peel of two
large lemons, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, a dozen blades of mace, and a
quarter of an ounce of powdered cochineal. Let it infuse a fortnight, stirring
it several times a day. Then boil it ten minutes, strain it, and bottle it for
use.
Eat it with any sort of
fish or game. It will give a fine pink tinge to melted butter.
Directions for Cookery, in its
Various Branches (Philadelphia, 1840) by Eliza Leslie
Quotation for the Day.
It has been an unchallengeable American doctrine that
cranberry sauce, a pink goo with overtones of sugared tomatoes, is a delectable
necessity of the Thanksgiving board and that turkey is uneatable without it...
There are some things in every country that you must be born to endure; and
another hundred years of general satisfaction with Americans and America could
not reconcile this expatriate to cranberry sauce, peanut butter, and drum
majorettes.
Alistair Cooke, Talk About
America (1968)
4 comments:
Do you think that by "tammy" he means "strain through a (tammy) cloth"?
I can't find any current culinary definition for this unusual word.
HinDale. Yes, i think that is what is meant.
We have so many things on our shelves, or the shelves of our shops, but I can't imagine having or buying all of these: walnut catsup, anchovy liquor, and cochineal. Not to mention blades of mace. I haven't used or needed mace in decades (and when I did it was ground, not in blades), and yet it appears constantly in recipes of a hundred or hundred and fifty years ago.
I sometimes think we have 'lost' more ingredients than we have gained.Cochineal is still available, but I have never had cause to use it.
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