Today’s story is for the foraging
fungivores amongst you. It is a story from (yet again!) The Food Journal, Volume 1 (1871)
African
Foods.
Gigantic
Mushrooms.
In an interesting
account of the Petras Negras of Pungo-Andongo, published in the “Journal of
Travel,” Dr Welwitsch, the Angolan explorer and botanist, incidentally mentions
having met with a mushroom of enormous dimensions. He says “among a great
number of cryptogenic plants, I shall only mention a gigantic agaric which I
found growing in the neighbouring Panda woods, distinguished by the immense
side of its head, which sometimes measures more than three feet in
circumference, as well as by the delicate flavour of its flesh.”
Wishing
to know something more of this extraordinary vegetable production, we turned
for information to Dr. Welwitsch’s description of the fungi collected by him,
the first part of which has appeared in the Transactions of the Linnean
Society, but found that it had not reached the agarics. We thereupon applied to
our friend, who, with his usual kindness, readily told us about it; and as it
is of special interest to the readers of the “Food Journal,” we have asked and
obtained permission to repeat his informaton. It appears that on a botanical
expedition in a district called Calungemgo, near Pungo-Andongo, his provisions
began to run short, and towards the close of the day’s ramble he came upon some
of his men carrying one of these enormous mushrooms home to camp for supper. He
had not himself previously met with it, but the natives had; and the short
commons on which they found themselves had sharpened their eyes and led to
their picking it up. Some idea of the size of the speciimen may be formed from
the fact that that single mushroom made soup sufficient to feed his party of
twenty. It was as large as an umbrella. Subsequenlty he met with it repeatedly,
and also found that it was familiar to all the inhabitants, a few being regularly, or rather irregularly,
brought to market during the season, at the presidium of Pungo-Andongo, where
they were sold at 1d. to 3d. a piece, according to size. The natives usually
brought them, one or two hanging at each end of a stick, carried Chinese
fashion over the shoulder. It is a true agaric, as yet undescribed, but which
we hope will not long remain so.
This story set me off on an
interesting trail. Mushrooms have been eaten by humans for millennia, and have
presumably been added to the cooking pot for as long as humans have been
cooking. The question is – when did they become the primary ingredient in soup, rather than simply flavor ingredient? Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery is my
primary go-to reference for English recipes of the 1870’s, but it does not
contain instructions for Mushroom
Soup amongst the thousands of offerings within its pages.
I did eventually find a recipe
for Mushroom Soup – in a cookery book published in 1847, in Carolina.
Mushroom Soup.
Put about a pint of
mushrooms, well cleaned and washed, and cut into small strips, with three
ounces of butter, into a saucepan, over the fire; let them stew until they fall
in. To this put two quarts of bouillon, and let the whole boil together half an
hour. You may thicken with the yolk of an egg and some parsley; add some
nutmeg. Pour the mixture over toasted sippets of bread. Either dried or fresh
mushrooms may be used. If the former, they must be boiled first an hour in fair
water, so that they may be softened and freed from sand.- German Receipt
The Carolina housewife, or House and home: by a lady of Charleston (1847)
The Carolina housewife, or House and home: by a lady of Charleston (1847)
I am most intrigued by the giant
mushrooms mentioned in the article, but know nothing about them. If you have
some information on them, will you share it with us via the comments, please?
Quotation for the Day.
Strange that mankind should ever have used the mushroom. All the various species of this substance are of a leathery consistence, and contain but little nutriment. The condiments or seasonings which are added are what are chiefly prized. Without these, we should almost as soon eat saw dust as mushrooms.
‘The Young House-keeper’ , William Andrus Alcott (1846)
1 comment:
I was going to ask if Alice and her hookah-smoking caterpillar were inspired by the discovery of this giant mushroom, but the journal came out in 1871 and the book in 1865.
Sandra
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