It is impossible to overerestimate
the importance of bread as the staple food of Britain and Europe, and of ale or
beer as the staple beverage of all, including children – and hence the enormity
of the disaster when the grain crop was poor.
For many centuries, from the
early middle ages onwards, bread was commonly sold in the form of a ‘gallon
loaf.’ This was not, as is often quoted, a quantity of bread made with a gallon
of water. In interpreting historical anecdotes and recipes, it is important to
remember that weights and measures have changed over time. It is also
interesting that a measure for one commodity might actually be a different amount
(weight or volume) than for another.
A delightful dictionary cum
household reference text from 1725 explains the concept of a ‘gallon’ at that
time. I give you the full title in all its wordy glory:
Dictionaire Œconomique, or, The
Family Dictionary. Containing the most experienced
methods of improving estates and of preserving health, with many approved
remedies for most distempers of the body of man, cattle and other creatures ...
The most advantageous ways of breeding, feeding and ordering all sorts of
domestick animals ... The different kinds of nets, snares and engines for
taking all sort of fish, birds, and other game. Great variety of rules,
directions, and new discoveries, relating to gardening [and] husbandry ... The
whole illustrated throughout with very great variety of figures ... Done into
English from the 2d edition, lately printed at Paris (1725), Noel Chomel, Richard
Bradley.
And here is all you needed to know
about gallons at that time:
DRY MEASURE; the Measuring of dry
Commodities, of which scarce [?] no Body should be ignorant; as Corn or Grain; for whch there is first the Gallon, which is bigger than the Wine-Gallon, and less than the Ale
or Beer-Gallon, containing Two hundred seventy-two and a quarter Cubick Inches,
and None Pound thirteen Ounces, twelve Drams and a half, of Averdupois Weight. Two of those Gallons
make a Peck, four Pecks a Bushel, four Bushels a Comb or Curnock, two Curnocks make
a Quarter, Seam, or Raff, and ten Quarters a Last, which contains Five thousand one
hundred and twenty pints, and so many Pounds Troy Weight; so that a Garrison of Five thousand Men, allowing each
but a Pound of Bread a Day; will consume near a Last, or eighty Bushels every Day; and Two hundred and fifty Men in
a Ship of War, will drink a Tun of Beer in two Days, allowing each Man about a
Pottle per Diem.
So, a gallon(or half-peck) loaf
was made with a gallon of flour or grain, not a gallon of water, and weighed 8
pounds and 11 ounces, or 8.6875 pounds. It was considered that a gallon of
bread (a little over a pound a day) was the basic ration for one adult for one
week, and it was on this basis that labourer’s wages and parish poor relief
were based.
As the recipe for the day, I give
you a marvelous recipe that requires grain in both forms – flour and beer – but
is a far more manageable quantity for the modern household.
Pearl Beer Bread.
One cup syrup, 1 teaspoon salt, 2
pounds rye flour, 6 cakes yeast, 8 orange peels, 4 cups Pearl beer, 2
pounds white flour.
Heat beer and syrup together
until lukewarm; mix yeast and salt and stir in some beer mixture. Cut small
pieces of orange peel separately into the rye and white flour. Make a smooth
dough by mixing all ingredients; let stand for 3-4 hour. Knead dough into long
loaves; rub with flour; and cover dough until it raises. Bake an hour over slow
fire; and brush loaves with hot water, rolling them in cloth until used.
Makes 3 loaves. Excellent for
sandwiches.
San
Antonio Light;
Nov 12, 1937
Quotation
for the Day.
Man does not live by bread alone,
even presliced bread.
D.W.
Brogan
5 comments:
I love browsing these old cookbooks. Is this book available online in English? I found a Dutch version but can only find catalog entries for the English.
Hi Les - it is available at Google Books. A love Google Books
Thank you!
No wonder my German-professor father used to refer to beer as "fluessiges Brot" (liquid bread).
Hello Shay - i love it! Grain plus yeast plus water - liquid bread indeed!
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