Last week I
had a bit of fun with a Facebook post on aprons:
“The woman who
does her own cooking will do it easier and take greater pleasure in her work if
she is properly dressed.”
[From an advertisement for ‘The Right
Kind of Aprons and House Dresses’, in the Twentieth
Century Cook Book (1914), by the Twentieth Century Club of Berkeley.]
There
followed a brief discussion on pinafores (my mother always referred to her
‘pinny’) versus aprons, which of course led me to look at the origin of the
words. ‘Apron’ is related to ‘napery’ (from the French) and was originally ‘a
napron’. The English lost the ‘n’, (perhaps accidentally, perhaps just to spite
the French) but were then forced to add it to the ‘a’ to make it comfortable to
pronounce. ‘Pinafore’ is a very nice, very uncomplicated word. It indicates that
it is something to be ‘pinned before’ (meaning ‘in front of’) the clothing, and
usually suggests an apron with a bib.
The French
origin of ‘apron’ does not imply that before ‘1066 And All That’, the English
were grubby and careless about the state of their daily dress. The Oxford English Dictionary tells me that
an earlier name was ‘barm cloth’ – from an old word meaning bosom or lap. So, a
barm cloth covered the bosom or lap. Lovely, isn’t it? Bring back barm-cloths,
I say.
Next detour.
We seem to have been steered to a consideration of barm, ‘the froth that forms
on the top of fermenting malt liquors, which is used to leaven bread, and to
cause fermentation in other liquors ...’ Ale-yeast used to be an be an
important leaven - perhaps the most
important - in centuries past. The local baker simply purchased the barm from
the local brewer, in a beautiful example of one man’s waste product being
another man’s essential ingredient.
Is the barm
in a bosom-cloth related to the barm which ale-yeast? The OED does not clarify
this to my complete satisfaction and understanding, but it seems that perhaps
they both reference the verb ‘to bear’, which makes some sense.
Now, if you
can source some barm, here is how to use it. Don’t forget to put your barm-cloth
on before you start.
Of baking Manchets.
Now for the baking of bread of your
simple meals, your best and principal bread is manchet, which you shall bake in
this manner:- First your meal being ground upon the black stones, if it be
possible, which makes the whitest flour, and boulted through the finest boulting
cloth, you shall put it into a clean Kimnel, and, opening the flour hollow in
the midst, put to it your best ale barm the quantity of three pints to a bushel
of meal, with some salt to season it with: then put in your liquor reasonable
warm and knead it very well together with your hands and through the brake, or
for want thereof, fold it in a cloth, and with your feet tread it a good space
together, then, letting it lie an hour or thereabouts to swell, take it forth
and mould it into manchets, round and flat; scotch about the waist to give it
leave to rise, and prick it with your knife in the top, and so put it into the
oven and bake it with a gentle heat.
The
English Housewife (1615),
Gervase Markham
Quotation for the Day.
Eaten bread
is forgotten.
Thomas
Fuller.
2 comments:
Very interesting post!
You might like to ask Michael Quinion (http://www.worldwidewords.org/) about the relationship between barm (yeast) and barm (bosom). He has a fascinating newsletter too.
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