I cannot imagine what the food world would smell like
without the ginger family. We have met
two members of the Zingiberaceae
this week on the blog – galangal and cardamom. Today it is the turn of
turmeric, and maybe in the future we will consider Grains of Paradise (melegueta
pepper). There may be others too, that will have their brief blog-moment after
I have indulged myself in a crash course in gingerology.
We must first consider the name. Let us just
say that ‘the origin is obscure’, and the Oxford
English Dictionary devotes a large paragraph to theorising about it. The OED seems to favour the idea that it
comes from ‘modern Latin terra merita ‘deserving or deserved
earth’, a name which the powder is said by Littré to have borne in commerce.’
Turmeric (Curcuma
longa) is ‘the aromatic and
pungent root-stock of an East Indian plant’ and the powdered spice made from
this root. In the way of all spices it has various medicinal qualities
attributed to it. In particular it is of potential use in cancer and Alzheimer’s
disease, and you can be sure I will be watching the research in those areas
very intently.
The plant is put to
several more uses. Should you need a litmus test but find yourself without any
of the standard paper strips, you can improvise with turmeric in water. Paper
dipped in this mixture will turn from yellow to reddish brown in the presence
of alkali. On a related note, turmeric is used as a dye (bright yellow,
naturally). Experts say the dye is not particularly stable, and fades with time
and sunlight. This is not my experience. I have several articles of clothing with
reminders of curries past in the form of yellow blotches which have resisted
all my laundering efforts – and I am a good laundress.
Finally we come to its culinary use. It is most familiar to
most of us as an ingredient in curry powder. I give you a nice example from the
exciting early days of the British Empire.
To Make a Currey the Indian Way.
Take two
small chickens, skin them and cut them as for a fricasey, wash them clean, and
stew them in about a quart of water for about five minutes; then strain off the
liquor and put the chickens in a clean dish; take three large onions, chop them
small, and fry them in about two ounces of butter, then put in the chickens,
and fry them together until they are brown, take a quarter of an ounce of
turmerick, a large spoonful of ginger and beaten pepper together, and a little
salt to your palate; strew all these ingredients over the chicken whilst
frying, then pour in the liquor, and let it stew about half an hour, then put
in a quarter of a pint of cream, and the juice of two lemons, and serve it up.
The ginger, pepper, and turmerick must be beat very fine.
The Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy
(1784), by Hannah Glasse,
Quotation for the Day.
Eating highly
seasoned food is unhealthful, because it stimulates too much, provokes the
appetite too much, and often is indigestible.
Catharine E. Beecher, Miss Beecher’s Domestic Receipt-Book (1846)
Catharine E. Beecher, Miss Beecher’s Domestic Receipt-Book (1846)
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