I would not enjoy cooking half as much, without spices. How
about you? It occurred to me that there are many spices that have not had their
day on this blog, so this week I have selected a few for our joint consumption.
Firstly, what is a spice? According to the Oxford English Dictionary it is ‘one or
other of various strongly flavoured or aromatic substances of vegetable origin,
obtained from tropical plants, commonly used as condiments or employment for
other purposes on account of their fragrance and preservative qualities.’
Interesting, that the OED includes the supposed preservative
qualities of spices. Has this ever been borne out by science? I don’t think so.
The definition no doubt derives from the belief that ‘curry’ is a way of
preserving meat in hot climates – and/or disguising the taste if it has already
spoiled. I don’t know how this idea ever got established. If it were true,
there would be no rationale for the adoption of heavily spiced dishes in cold
climates. There would be no need for spicy hot ale posset or gingerbread in
mid-winter Europe. There would have been no impetus for the hazardous and
expensive voyages of exploration and other imperial thrusts towards the spice
lands of the mysterious East. ‘Curry’ would not be almost the national
favourite dish in England.
There is no nutritional drive for added flavour. Aside from
the possible medical benefits of some spices (a ‘watch this space’ region if
ever there was one), spices add flavour, not nutritional value. A piece of
cinnamon toast has barely any more calories, fat, protein, carbohydrates or
vitamins than plain toast (with a sprinkle of sugar on it) but my goodness, its
smell is more likely to lure you back into the kitchen, isn’t it?
Humans like warm,
sweet, aromatic, peppery, gingery, hot, complex spicy flavours. That is the sum of it. Humans have been so fond of
fragrant, spicy dishes that they have
been prepared to risk life, limb, and the national economy to ensure their fix.
Historically, humans have been willing to spend years crossing treacherous
oceans aboard fragile ships, and dangerous deserts aboard ill-tempered camels,
in the hope of making vast amounts of money by finding spices to sell to
home-bodies hungry for tasty, spicy,
fragrant, stews, soups, cakes, pies, sauces, beverages and whatever else you
can think of.
To start our week I give you a couple of nice,
non-threatening spicy dishes from The
Suffrage Cook Book (Pittsburgh, 1915), by Mrs. L.O.Kleber.
Spice Pie
The yolks of
three eggs, one and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of cream, two
tablespoons of flour, two-thirds of a cupful of butter, one teaspoon of spice,
cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg.
Mix the
flour and sugar together, then cream with the butter. Add the yolks of the eggs,
beating thoroughly. Next add cream and spices. Use the whites for the frosting.
Inexpensive Spice Cake
½ cup shortening
2 cups brown
sugar
grated rind
of lemon
2 eggs
3 cups flour
1 lb. seeded
raisins
½ teaspoon
cinnamon
dash of
cloves and nutmeg
Boil raisins
in 1 ½ cups water twenty minutes.
Mix
shortening, sugar, lemon rind, eggs and spices, add one cup flour then raisins
drained but still hot. Then the other two cups flour and ½ cup of the water in
which the raisins were boiled to which add 1 teaspoon bi-carbonate soda.
Bake in gem
pans in moderate oven. This makes 30 cakes which can be iced with white or
chocolate icing.
Quotation for the Day.
A man all
Vertue, like a Pye all Spice, will not please.
J. Crowne, Regulus: a
tragedy (1694)
5 comments:
Actually there have been studies which have found antimicrobial properties in spices, particularly cinnamon and clove. The essential oils seem to be where the preservative properties lie. Food spoils in even cold climates, just less quickly.
I did a quick Google Scholar search for the phrase "spices preservative" http://scholar.google.com/scholar?hl=en&q=spices+preservative&btnG=Search&as_sdt=0%2C5&as_ylo=&as_vis=0
"Spice Pie" is half a recipe... no clues how to cook it??
Where did I read that men find cinnamon to be a very erotic scent? Something about Mom and Apple Pie, all that nurturing? I love to try out new spices. I read the Penzey's catalogue like its a magazine.
Love your blog, very much, as I am interested in pre-industrial food preparation and preservation.
I have noted, in my researches of the Middle Ages, that spices were prized for being able to cover the taste of "turned" or rancid meat. That is being abler to make a rancid bit much more palatable. Could this be where the assumed "preservative" qualities of spices came from? Could it be concluded that adding spices to a salt brine for corning, the folk back then thought the added flavors enhanced the preservative qualities of the corning mix? It would be interesting to find out.
Again, love the blog! Keep up the good work!
I imagine that the 'preservative' qualities they have in mind is probably just a reference to the antibacterial properties of some spices (cumin, for example). I don't imagine it would actually so much preserve the foods as perhaps just stave off the bacterial critters for a little while! :)
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