Spinach and Bananas.
Wash two
pounds of spinach and cook for twenty minutes; then pass through a sieve. Add
one ounce of butter, season with pepper and salt, and pile in the centre of an
entree dish. Peel four bananas, divide them into quarters, dip each piece in
beaten egg, then roll in fine breadcrumbs, flavoured with coralline pepper. Fry
in deep boiling fat and arrange the golden
brown fritters round the spinach, and serve.
Times of India, March 2, 1914
It sounds interesting, and not awful at all, so I must not
judge so hastily in the future. I could not immediately re-create it however,
as I had no idea what ‘coralline pepper’ was. Several elite dictionaries were
no help, most having nothing at all on the phrase, and one only going so far as
to say that it was pepper the colour of coral. There were clues scattered here
and there, in various cookery books, that it might refer to ‘paprika pepper’,
and I am pretty confident that this is correct. The final piece of evidence was
a recipe for ‘Coralline Rice.’ Sadly, I am unable to give you this recipe at
present, as the newspaper must have been in very poor condition, and not all
the text in the pdf is readable. It was obvious however, that sufficient
coralline pepper was to be added to give the rice ‘a nice terra-cotta colour.’
Any of you have a more scholarly source, to back this up?
Quotation for the Day.
I detest spinach because of its utterly amorphous
character....the only good, noble and edible thing to be found in that sordid
nourishment is the sand.
Salvador Dali, 'The Secret Life of Salvador Dali' (1942)
Salvador Dali, 'The Secret Life of Salvador Dali' (1942)
Maybe it refers to pink peppercorns?
ReplyDeleteI found this:
http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/coralline
I like to roast or fry plantains and season them with a blend of fresh ground mixed peppercorns, cinnamon and kosher salt. The pink peppercorns in the blend are a little hotter than the black or white. I can't imagine eating spinach that has been boiled for 20 minutes though. Than again it probably would be a very good sauce once it had been sieved.
I found this reference to Marshall's coralline pepper:
ReplyDeletehttp://chestofbooks.com/food/recipes/Cookery-Book-Recipes/Cooking-Classes-Part-3.html#marshall_s_coralline_pepper
Pink peppercorns here:
http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/06/spice-hunting-pink-peppercorns.html
They are a coral color.
"Color one portion with paprika or coralline, pepper..." (http://tinyurl.com/6jum3jk)
ReplyDeleteThis might imply that it was paprika. What about pink peppercorns?
Hi Alys and Les. I wondered about pink peppercorns, but several recipes suggest black peppercorns and coralline pepper, which made me think they would have specified pink peppercorns too. Also the reference mentioned by Alys suggests paprika. Another thing is that several references to it say to 'dust' with it, no mention of crushing or grinding, suggesting a powder.
ReplyDeleteI am surprised at the lack of dictionary help!
Pink peppercorns aren't a true peppercorn, they are actually dried berries. Maybe the nomenclature has changed since the late 19th century?
ReplyDelete