One of the other ‘oddities’ that featured on the mid-nineteenth
century Parisian ‘Chinese’ menu I gave you the other day was ‘swallows'-nests, cooked in the Nankin method.’
I am not sure what ‘the Nankin method’ entailed, but the basic dish was
presumably the famous and intriguing ‘Bird’s Nest Soup.’ A well-known and
variously attributed quotation is that ‘it was a brave man that first ate an
oyster.’ It must have been a much braver, or hungrier, man to first tackle a
birds’ nest.
The birds in question are several species of swift (Aerodramus
sp.). The male builds the nest precariously
high up on the wall of a limestone cave – although nowadays humans provide purpose-built
concrete nesting houses in many areas, to encourage supply and facilitate
harvesting. The construction material for the cup-shaped nest is a special form
of saliva to which is attributed medicinal properties nothing short of
miraculous.
The medicinal
reputation, and the (originally) extremely hazardous harvesting method has
resulted in the birds’ nests being amongst the most expensive foods consumed by
humans. One kilogram of the highest
quality nests may be worth over $10,000 USD!
Like so many exotic
Eastern dishes, Bird’s Nest Soup became briefly fashionable in Europe in the
nineteenth century, its name Frenchified to the far-more glamorous-sounding Potage
aux Nids d’ Hirondelles. Our recipe for the day comes from Things
Chinese: Or, Notes Connected with China, by James Dyer Ball (1904.)
Birds’ Nest
Soup.
… is even more of a
luxury in China than turtle soup is in England … it forms the first dish at all
grand dinners. Here is a receipt for preparing Potage aux Nids d’
Hirondelles, translated from the Chinese :
‘Take clean white birds’ nest shreds, or birds’ nests, and
soak thoroughly. Pick out all feathers. Boil in soup or water till tender, and
of the colour of jadestone. Place pigeons' eggs below, and add some ham shreds
on top. Boil again slowly with little fluid. If required sweet, then boil in
clear water till tender, add sugar-candy, and then eat. This is a most clear
and pure article, and thick (or oily) substances should not be added. It should
be boiled for a long time; for, if not boiled till tender, it will cause
diarrhoea.’
Quotation for the
Day.
Plant a
radish, get a radish, never any doubt. That's why I love vegetables, you
know what they're about!
Tom Jones and Harvey Schmidt
1 comment:
Interesting. Didn't know that there were recipes that specified ACTUAL birds' nests. There were many recipes in late 19th century American cookbooks for Birds' Nest Pudding, but most (I think) of those were made of apples and a custard, enclosed in a pie crust.
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